The lifting belt is the iconic fitness accessory. Donned by legends in all strength sports to lift more weight, more reps, and provide stability and support – its only reasonable that you’re interested in one. But with so many options in the market today, it can be incredibly confusing to pick the right one.
My name is Arty, and I am fortunate to exist in the sliver of overlap between belt fabricator and strength coach. Most articles written about the belt, how it works and how to pick one, are written by strength coaches. A very few are written by actual fabricators, and none are written by both (let me know if you find one). Since 2013, I have been making leather weightlifting belts, straps and fitness accessories in Edmonton, as a 2nd generation leatherworker. My business is working with a host of high-level weightlifters, powerlifters, bodybuilders, strongmen, and sporting businesses and organizations. I have also been a fitness and strength coach since 2011, graduated with my bachelors of Kinesiology in 2020, and am currently a CPT diploma college instructor. I have spent many years competing in powerlifting, coaching athletes and regular gym goers, and consult on their training.
When it comes to educating a consumer on this topic, I’m not sure there is someone more qualified. So, welcome to the last belt guide you’ll ever need.
The goal of this guide is thorough (I’m not joking about that word) consumer education. I believe the best, highest quality and most sustainable market decisions are made with the most amount of information attainable. To start the thorough guide, scroll past the bullet points. I also know that not everyone will want to read 3000 words (approximately 20-25 minutes) on the topic, so a shorter summary of all important points follows:
Shortened Guide:
You don’t need a lifting belt to get bigger, stronger, faster, or leaner.
We don’t have the evidence to say that lifting belts prevent injury.
Lifting belts reduce your effort rating, get you more reps, and allow you to lift more weight, potentially creating a stronger hypertrophic and strength stimulus to the body.
It is theorized that the belt’s primary mechanism of action is through the increase of Intra-Abdominal Fluid Pressure or IAP, which increases stability through the trunk and (probably) neural drive to the primary muscles required in the performed movement.
There are 2 main styles of belts:
Tapered
Generally best suited for but not limited to people looking for moderate support, high mobility requirements, new lifters, smaller builds, Olympic weightlifters, bodybuilders or regular gym goers.
Industry standard is a 4” wide back brace tapering at the sides to 2 or 2.5” tongue.
This tapered design is less restrictive and constricting on the ribs and hips, and is better suited for movements that require deep hip flexion like squats, snatches/cleans, and deadlifts.
Will come in a single or double prong variety. Buckle considerations are explored below.
A reverse tapered belt is one in which the front portion is wider than the rear. This is really only used in powerlifting competition bench pressing.
A “Bulgarian Style” lifting belt has the buckle assembly biased closer to the back brace, moving the higher profile buckle and belt keepers out of the way of the barbell during a clean or snatch.
Continuous Width
Primarily Leather Construction:
Generally best suited for but not limited to people looking for moderate-maximal support, movements with lower mobility requirements, intermediate-advanced lifters, lifters of larger or taller builds, powerlifters or strongmen
Industry standard is a 4” continuous width with some companies offering a 3” width.
Continuous width designs offer more surface area to push against, creating more Intra-abdominal pressure (IAP) and greater stability.
These belts are generally stiffer, sacrificing comfort and malleability for maximal support.
Woven Synthetic Constructions:
Woven nylon or polyester belts have become very popular in the last 20 years due to their generally thinner profile, lighter weight, softer hand feel and ease of use of the usually-accompanying Velcro fastening system.
Popular as “under-belts” in Strongman competition to add lighter support and heat.
Popular with Crossfit-style athletes and weightlifters for the thinner profile, allowing them to keep the bar close during Olympic lifts.
Most popular synthetic belts are continuous width, but may also be tapered or shaped.
Potential drawbacks come mostly in the fastening system – Velcro tends to decrease in bonding strength over time, and I would recommend the auto-locking friction buckles over the simpler free-roller type.
Fastening Systems
Roller Buckles
Secure and intuitive to use
The best buckles are made of stainless steel which wont chip or rust
Seamless rollers are preferred for longevity
Look for buckles with prongs that terminate before the outer edge of the roller AND/OR have prong tips that are shaped or tapered.
The smaller the tongue holes, the more difficult the buckle will be to undo.
Single or double prong buckles are the standards. Single prong buckles provide a pivot point for the tongue to slightly rotate around, making a belt that is slightly more form fitting than the double prong variety.
In thick powerlifting style belts, the double prong belt is often considered the most supportive and also most difficult belt to wear.
Classic Lever
Pops in and out of tension quickly and easily
Cast quality can vary dramatically so purchase from a well-respected brand or look for stainless steel.
Can take a couple minutes to readjust the lever for a new tension setting.
Adjustable Levers
3 main types:
Titan created an aesthetically “classic” lever that freely adjusts to tension holes via two teeth on the base of the lever.
SBD created a concept-similar lever but uses 4 teeth for security. Made of cast aluminum to be lighter weight.
Pioneer created the Pioneer Adjustable Lever (PAL) that is backwards-compatible on to classic lever belts and allows micro adjustment of tension.
Recommended for athletes that enjoy a faster and simpler tension system, but may fluctuate in weight or waist measurement more frequently.
Wahlander Buckle
Solid welded steel design with rigid prongs
Pops out of tension as fast as a lever belt
Has somewhat of a learning curve
Does not utilize mechanical advantage during tightening, so you must suck your belly in to lock the belt to the appropriate tension.
Velcro
Easy and quick to adjust, allows for a unique tension setting each time.
Low-profile buckle
Velcro can lose strength over time, consult reviews and ratings to determine a brand’s longevity.
Crank Type
Utilizes ratchet strapping or snowboard binding systems to create micro adjusted tensions.
Restricted in some powerlifting federations
Can be higher profile
Rarest fastening system
Thickness
Material thickness can vary between brands and models, but most belts are within the 5-13mm range.
Synthetics tend to be on the thinner side, with exceptions.
Relatively strong correlation between thickness and rigidity. Thinner belts will break in faster and have slightly more stretch than thicker belts.
For Olympic lifting and bodybuilding, I generally recommend under 8mm in thickness.
In powerlifting, there are basically 2 choices – 10 and 13mm.
My personal opinion is that probably 95% of PL athletes will not see a performance advantage with a 13mm over a 10mm.
The 13mm thickness is clunky, largely uncomfortable and in the lever designs, creates a hard edge, corners, and step on the interior of the belt during fastening that many people find digs into their ribs and hips.
I would recommend 10mm or less for most athletes excluding those who are taller, heavyweight, or strongmen competitors.
Material
I believe the best materials for lifting belts are saddle or sole leathers
Saddle leather is commonly used in tapered belt designs as it breaks in faster to shape to higher mobility movements.
Sole leather is most commonly used for powerlifting belts where high density and low malleability are the most important elements
Some fabricators will use additional synthetic materials laminated between the layers of leather to further increase stiffness.
Some belts utilize foam cores to make up thickness while reducing weight and increasing malleability.
Polyurethane or other synthetic materials are commonly used as exteriors on digitally printed or embroidered belts. Durability of this product can vary drastically between fabricators.
Belt exteriors can also be made of the outer grain of the main body leather, suede, or garment/upholstery leather.
Suede has a soft and comfortable feel but discolouration or fibre compression can happen over time.
Upholstery leather is colour fast, has a soft hand feel, and can have beautiful grains and textures. It is usually water resistant and easy to clean. In most cases, this type of leather exterior will maintain its colour for the longest time.
Cheaper “Leather” belts are often made of laminations of many layers of lower quality, structurally weak suede, bonded leather, or plastic.
These belts commonly develop tears at the tongue holes, sometimes in a very short time period.
Longevity + Sustainability
We all want products that will last, but most items are designed to maximally reduce material cost just to the point of lasting long enough to not upset the average customer.
The 50$ belt will likely not live as long as more expensive belts made of higher quality material, fairer labour conditions and more sustainable environmental practices.
This higher upfront bill will still likely cost you less in the long run, while also providing a better lifting experience and a product that will be part of a years-long fitness journey. We impart meaning to the things that we use during this time, and a belt that is years old – that is filled with PRs, struggles, achievements and memories, can become very sentimental.
More consumers care about sustainability in their market decisions, and fitness accessories shouldn’t be any different.
Extended Guide Begins Here:
Now, for those of you who want to be thoroughly educated to make the best decision for your lifting, read on! You will learn so much more than you ever thought you needed to know.
There are a lot of different options in the market. I won’t be referencing specific companies or products frequently - rather the point is to give you the best understanding of the products, so that you could look at any belt and have a confident view of its pros and cons.
I won’t shy away from promoting my own products in their appropriate places, but my priority is to educate the consumer over selling my own products. Lets begin!
Do you need a lifting belt?
Short answer: No. Long answer: Yes
The lifting belt’s primary function is to increase Intra-Abdominal fluid Pressure (IAP). When you have a belt wrapped around your torso tight enough, taking a big breath and pushing down on the belt increases the pressure inside your abdomen. This increased pressure increases the stability of your torso. I liken it to a pop can that has been shaken up to increase the gas pressure inside of it – it is much harder then to push the walls of the can in compared to an unshaken can. The specifics beyond this primary theory are not perfectly fleshed out. We are not entirely sure how this increase in pressure translates to increased force output, increased reps, increase speed and decreased perceived effort during a lift. My favourite theory right now is that giving the abdominal muscles something to push against, paired with this increase in IAP, results in less inhibition by the nervous system to the primary movers (the legs and hips for example, during a squat). We already naturally perform the Valsalva Maneuver (the act of taking in a big breath, bracing our abdomen hard, right before pushing a car out of the snow) and I believe that the addition of the belt basically enhances that mechanical and nervous system action. When the body feels like the core is more stable, it allows the other muscles to push harder.
What about safety? In regular gym water-cooler talk, this is what most people think that a lifting belt does. But we actually don’t have great data to support that. What I definitely have seen however, is that the feeling of pain can be modified by wearing a belt. Sometimes it can improve it, sometimes it can make it worse. But I would not recommend anyone to buy a belt on the assumption that it reduces your risk – we just can’t scientifically support that statement. A thorough expansion of this topic can be found in Greg Nuckols’ fantastic article, “THE BELT BIBLE”.
And this is where the coach in me will come out and the salesman will take a back seat: A belt is not necessary to getting bigger, stronger, faster, or leaner. You quite simply do not need one. But having one allows you to train harder, heavier, with more stability and less fatigue. And those are important factors that will likely result in a greater stimulus to you in your training.
Types of Belts
There are a LOT of different belt styles available today. Different shapes, materials, thicknesses and clasping systems can really overwhelm a lot of people – so I believe this guide goes over pretty much all belt options available on the market.
The Tapered Style
This is probably the most recognized lifting belt. It has a wider back brace and it tapers to a narrower belt tongue. These dimensions are often standardized to 10-12cm backs and 5-6.5cm fronts. They come in double and single prongs, and are usually made of leather. The tapering of the tongue allows for deeper hip flexion in the weightlifting movements of Snatch and Clean and Jerk and most will say that this is the most comfortable belt style. Thicknesses will vary between 4 and 10mm, largely standardized around the 6-8mm mark. I have used belts as thin as 3mm with good comfort and support. The thinner the belt, the more flexible it will be, and vice versa. I think for weightlifters and bodybuilders, sticking to belts under 8mm would be best.
The tapered style, “Olympic” lifting belt
The back brace horizontal length is largely standardized but often biases to be too long – the taper does not start early enough and often extends too far to the sides and front of the athlete’s torso. Back brace length should ideally be short enough to allow a deep, wide squat without pinching your hips or ribs. I tackled this issue early on in my “Olympic” belt design.
There are 2 most popular widths for the tongue - 2 inches (50mm) and 2.5 inches (65mm). I produce both, but the 50mm model uses a single prong buckle while the 65mm uses a double prong. A single prong, 50mm belt would be the most mobile, classic lifting belt design. More on the double vs. single prong debate will follow.
A single prong, 50mm (2”) Olympic lifting belt.
Sometimes these belts come with buckle backings, or different designs of creating a barrier between the buckle and the torso. It is often marketed as a way to avoid pinching the skin, but I have largely moved away from that standard as I don’t believe it necessary if you have a properly shaped, well-designed buckle. I do however, offer it as a design customization.
Some tapered style belts may have buckle backings.
Many of these belts also come with padding in the back. Hypothetically, this padding should actually reduce IAP as contraction of the abs would push the belt forward, losing tension into the padding in the back. Kind of like squatting on a mattress. Nevertheless, many people love the padding and I also offer it as an option.
Some belts will come with foam padding in the rear brace.
Most belts are tapered wide back to a narrow front, but there are belts that only narrow on the sides, and increase in width again towards the front.
The “Bulgarian Style” of taper differs in that the buckle lies much closer to the rear back brace. When wearing this style of belt, the buckle and its thicker profile are offset to your left, allowing you to keep the bar closer during a clean and jerk or snatch. To my knowledge, I am the only fabricator who produces this option currently.
A “Bulgarian” style of taper.
These belts are very popular among physique athletes such as bodybuilders or bikini competitors. They can wear them comfortably while using machines such as the leg press. Because maximal weight lifted is not the main goal, more focus is put on comfort, especially for longer sets common to hypertrophy training.
Tapered belts are also the classic standard in weightlifting, where mobility demands of the low catch position in the snatch and clean and jerk require a narrower tongue. A slim buckle profile is also important to allow close bar position during these movements.
Lastly, I would recommend this style for the vast majority of regular gym-goers who do a mix of barbell and machine work. The larger and stiffer models are often too uncomfortable for this demographic who may not be as interested in lifting maximal loads frequently.
Continuous Width Styles
These models were probably popularized with powerlifting becoming formalized in the 60s. They are usually made with leather and/or synthetic material. They are one continuous width, standardized in the market between 80mm (3inch, often called bench or deadlift belts) and 100mm (4 inches). Their construction is usually thicker, between 8 and 13mm to provide more rigid support. In powerlifting, the major options for leather belts are either 10mm or 13mm. My personal opinion is that the vast majority of lifters will not see a performance advantage with a 13mm over the same model at 10mm. 13mm is thick. These belts are incredibly stiff and create a very pronounced tail-end edge with corners that dig aggressively into your ribs. I have yet to see anyone do a stretch comparison between 10 and 13mm belts – but I bet it would be largely insignificant, and come at a large cost to the belt’s ability to form to the torso. Unless you are of a taller build, heavyweight, or compete in strongman, I believe that belts under 10mm are going to be far more friendly to you. Many companies will laminate a layer of synthetic stiffening material in the belt to provide even more rigidity. These models are often times quite uncomfortable to lift with in the beginning, especially for smaller lifters with less space between the hips and ribs.
The main idea of these belts is to offer maximum surface area to brace against – increasing support and leading to greater force production.
A thick profile roller belt buckle and belt loop make these models unpopular in weightlifting and crossfit (exceptions made for Zack Telander). This larger profile lends itself well to powerlifting and strongman, even using the thick buckle assembly as a shelf for the axle in the clean and press, or the stone in the atlas stone lift event. When using the belt in powerlifting, make sure to check your federation’s approved brands and/or specs.
These continuous width styles are also made in woven synthetics such as nylon or polyester, and have become very popular in the crossfit and weightlifting worlds. They are usually thinner profile, lighter weight, and can be tightened and loosened quickly. Synthetics have also made a place for themselves in strongman as “underbelts”, which provide softer support and warmth. American companies have developed incredibly thick woven synthetic belts that tighten with strapping systems. Woven synthetics are more pliable and softer feeling, yet have basically zero stretch. They are usually made in a continuous-width shape, but tapered or shaped options also exist.
Locking Systems
Roller Buckle
The most popular and traditional method of fastening a belt is the pronged roller buckle. Prong tip shape is important for unbuckling. A hard, straight cut is less desirable than a tapered, shaped or slightly curved one over the roller. I advise to avoid belts with straight-cut prongs that extend beyond the roller. These prongs get stuck in the tongue holes and require you to shimmy the tongue to get them unstuck.
Hole size and shape greatly affects the ease of use. The worst combination you can have is a belt with small holes and long prongs. After a challenging set, the desire to remove tension from your waist and allow unrestricted breathing is the primary focus. Having to crank your waist even tighter and hold for a long time while trying to unbuckle the belt is a terrible feeling. Most companies solve this issue by increasing the hole diameter. Traditionally, in saddlery and beltmaking, this issue is properly solved by using oblong shaped holes. To my knowledge, I am the only lifting belt fabricator that uses this method.
Oblong shaped holes allow for an easier experience of tightening and loosening the belt.
The best buckles are made of stainless steel. They do not rust or chip, and will patina beautifully. Solid brass will also patina but is a softer metal. Nickel plated buckles, granted the plating is of high quality, is a good and affordable option. Most buckles on the market are nickel or chrome plated. I do not recommend coloured buckles; they go through so much wear that the paint chips off - sometimes immediately. One company comes to mind that used product shots of brand new belts with the buckle paint chipped, fresh out of the factory.
There are 2 main roller buckle constructions – seamless and seamed rollers. Seamed roller buckles have a solid square ring frame construction, and are often welded shut. This frame is incredibly strong. The plate metal roller must then be rolled on to the finished frame. If the roller metal is of softer temper, it will start to bend, eventually mushroom, and may develop a hard edge that cuts into the leather. Stainless does not have this issue.
Seamless rollers are the most sought after. They are standard in most quality powerlifting belts currently, in a nickel-plated finish. The frame is an open C shape, which is opened just enough to put in the seamless tube roller into the frame. This results in a very strong buckle with a roller that will never splay open.
Seamless roller buckles are the current quality standard for lifting belts.
For powerlifting belts, the 2 most popular styles of lock is the lever and prong buckle. Of the prong buckles, there is a single and a double prong style. The single prong is easier to get on and off, and is a bit more malleable to your torso because the prong itself acts as a singular pivot point for the tongue. Double prong does not provide this pivot point, creating a stiffer junction. Of all belt types, the double prong 13mm powerlifting belt is probably the stiffest and most difficult belt to wear. Prong belts are great for people who tend to fluctuate in weight or like to train in thick sweaters. Its also a more classic aesthetic, if you’re into that. For weightlifters, bodybuilders, or casual gym-goers, the single prong, 2” tapered belt would be the most form fitting of all models, allowing the most amount of mobility in exchange for the least stability. The single/double prong considerations are the same for tapered belts.
Classic Lever
The lever design was originally patented by Thomas and Joel DiMarco in 1983. I have seen it popularized largely by Inzer, but after the patent expired in the early 2000s, an infinite number of copies flooded the market. You can now get them in a lot of different colours and customizations, but the shape and size has remained largely unchanged since that original design. It works by attaching its 4 teeth into the holes of the opposite (head) end of the belt, then with a lever action, closes this junction to increase tension. After a heavy set, this is the easiest and fastest way to unlock a belt and relieve tension. One consideration is that it requires a screwdriver or coin to reposition the lever for a different waist size. However, if you do not fluctuate largely in weight, or start your session in a sweater and end up topless by the last warmup, most users find this issue to be largely irrelevant.
A classic Lever belt.
With so many different fabricators now, the range in quality is the biggest issue. In my 12 years in the sport, I have seen too many of them snap. Sometimes mid-lift, sometimes after dropping the belt on the floor. 99% of the levers on the market today are cast out of an alloy. The chemistry of this alloy as well as the quality and density of the cast can vary greatly from one foundry to the next. If you choose to go with a lever, go with a well-respected brand that warranties their product. “Well-respected” means they have tested and vetted their lever properly over years of use, and will replace them without hassle in the event of a break. I use stainless steel levers, so durability worries are not a consideration. They do increase the price however – stainless costs about 3-5x more than cast levers. For the peace of mind, it was a no-brainer for me to make the swap all those years ago. I have never looked back.
Gliding/adjustable levers
An adjustable lever is a lever clasping system that does not require you to unbolt the lever body from its position to adjust to a different tension setting. From my reading, Titan was the first brand to patent an adjustable lever. The 4 teeth on the end of the classic lever are permanently secured into the belt head end, using 2 teeth on the lever base to lock into the tail’s different tension slots, usually spaced at 1 inch. They also use domestic (USA) production. SBD’s aluminum cast lever uses the same principals, but has 4 teeth for securing tension instead of 2. Pioneer Belts also patented the PAL (Pioneer Adjustable Lever) which is a modified classic lever that uses pins instead of teeth, secured in grooves to make micro-adjustments in tension. The neat thing about the PAL is that it is backwards compatible on to most standard classic lever belts. Pioneer also produces in the USA.
All of these patents have proven quite popular in the market, with the SBD Lever belt basically taking over the world of powerlifting and strongman. At a standard of 13mm thick, fantastic build quality with domestic (UK) fabrication, it makes sense how they did it. The high profile of the belt and lever have proven useful in strongman for racking or shelving an axle bar during an axle clean and press. All 3 of these brands would be considered “Well-Respected” in my eyes. If you’re someone who fluctuates in waist measurement or loves the lever mechanism, these could be great options for you.
Wahlanders buckle
I have also seen this buckle called the “European style” buckle, probably referring to Wahlanders being a Swedish company. This buckle type has solid welded prongs and requires the user to overlap the belt to the appropriate tension and then lock the prongs into place. This buckle has the steepest learning curve, but pops out of tension as quickly as a lever belt. It is very low profile and very secure. The biggest drawbacks are having to get the belt into tension without the mechanical advantage of a roller or lever. After getting used to this however, it becomes second nature. They are a company I greatly respect, and produce in a small shop in Sweden.
Velcro
They are light, affordable, easy to use and low profile. For sports like crossfit, where getting into and out of tension quickly while running around is the sport, this is the best option. In strongman, they are often used as “underbelts” to aid in heating and providing more flexible support to a larger area underneath the 4 inch lifting belt. Due to their extremely low profile, they are also popular with weightlifters, allowing them to keep the bar as close as possible to their torso during the snatch and clean. Even some powerlifters will prefer to use the thicker, denser, woven synthetic belts produced by some American companies such as Spud.
The drawbacks of Velcro belts are mostly in the realm of longevity. Velcro quality and durability range tremendously across different brands. Having the Velcro pop open mid lift is always a fun experience (sarcasm). Because the strap itself is made of woven fabric, some brands softer weave of strap can start sliding towards one end of the buckle and create an uneven surface to brace against. Some companies have realized this issue and have started to use autolock friction buckles in their design, which reduces the friction requirements on the Velcro and hypothetically should make for a longer lasting product.
Crank System
This is the rarest of the tension systems. There are only a handful of fabricators using some kind of ratchet or bootstrap system, although more today than when I first attached a snowboard binding to a belt in 2013. A few American companies are using actual truck ratchet straps on their belts as a way to get an incredibly secure and very finely dialed way to get perfect tension. In my 12+ years in the sport, I have seen maybe 1 of these systems in person. I believe they are restricted in some strength sport federations so make sure you look at their rules. Their relatively low popularity may have something to do with their tall buckle profile or clunky aesthetic. Someone also told me a tale once of a ratchet that got jammed.
Material + Longevity
I prefer to use as many natural and biodegradable materials in my products, because I don’t want them to last forever (in a landfill). The environmental and economical impacts of synthetics vs. natural materials is very complicated and not easily compared. A good primer on the topic can be found here.
Material
Apart from how well it is maintained, and how rough it is used, a belt’s longevity will be defined by its material, hardware, and design. We’ve discussed design and hardware above, so material is all that’s left. Cutting to the chase, I believe full grain, vegetable-tanned saddle or sole leather is the best material available. If you purchase a belt made in north America, there’s a high chance that these are the primary materials in the belt’s construction. This leather is usually quite thick, between 4 and 7mm per layer. Saddle leather or “Saddle Skirting” is commonly used in weightlifting belts for its ability to break in quickly and shape itself faster to movements that require more hip mobility.
The belt in the top position is one of the last that was ever made by Uesaka’s original leather craftsman. It has aged beautifully, owing to the incredible quality of the leather used. Below is my original rendition of this belt, now sold HERE
Most powerlifting belts are made of sole leather, which is the butt end of the hide further compressed by rollers to achieve incredible density and stretch resistance. Some brands increase this stiffness even more by adding synthetic reinforcement layers. I have seen some cheaper powerlifting belts with a 3mm layer of plastic as the core. These materials sacrifice comfort for maximal support. When you’re under a maximal, eye bulging squat, comfort is not necessarily high on your priorities anyway.
Some belts have started to use foam cores to reduce weight and increase pliability. It’s probably the only synthetic material design element that I like. Synthetics are also common as Polyurethane (PU) exteriors for printed or embroidered belts. Ask the manufacturer about their specific material’s longevity, as PU commonly dries out, starts cracking and peeling, especially at the highest wear points around the belt holes. Synthetic exteriors vary dramatically in quality and durability, and there’s no way to go over all of the synthetic options in this article. For this reason, I never use synthetics in belt construction except when specifically requested for increased stiffness.
Other than synthetics or the top grain of the saddle/sole leather, belt exteriors are commonly made of garment/upholstery or suede leather. These leathers are thin enough to be embroidered, so are used in higher quality belts for that purpose. Suede is a “split” leather – meaning a full thickness hide is split into multiple, thinner layers that produce a softer, fluffy textured leather. It has a fantastic hand feel, but can accumulate dirt over time, so proper maintenance is required if you want your belt to remain pristine. Discolouration and fibre flattening can also occur over time when it is used as an interior liner - being constantly exposed to sweat, heat and pressure. Garment or upholstery leathers are my favourite for exteriors when I’m looking for a durable colour-fast material with a softer hand feel. Many upholstery leathers also come with beautiful grain patterns. They are water resistant and easy to clean.
Cheaper belts are made by laminating many layers of low-quality suede, bonded leather, or plastic. Oftentimes you can piece apart the layers by running your thumb perpendicularly across the edge like flipping through a deck of cards. Bonded leather is the remaining fluff and loose fibers that are then glued and pressed together. This construction is incredibly cheap to produce and results in a low-grade product that may develop tears, usually at the tongue holes, in under a year. I have seen these belts hanging brand new on the rack with rusted rivets. The leather is so dry and the plastic coating on it so heavy, that it feels brittle to the touch. Raw material and hardware of such low quality is almost impossible to find in North America, so I don’t know of any producers here that make such belts.
Longevity
There are few things that upset me more about modern items than their short lifespan. Why are my printers breaking every year? Why are all of my sneakers tearing after 6 months? I believe there are 2 main pressures on companies that end up in the production of cheaper, shorter lasting products: the continual drive to increase profits by reduction in costs, and the consumer’s want and expectation for new and trendy products. So, if a product is trendy, but lasts beyond the trend’s lifespan, then a business will notice that they can reduce quality and cost until a product’s lifespan matches its expected “trendspan”. If a product lasts shorter than their customer’s expectation, they increase the quality. If it lasts beyond the customer’s expectation, they can decrease the quality and save cost. I think these expectations have all played into the modern consumer’s slow but continually decreasing expectations in all products’ lifespans. We have become used to a printer lasting a year or two. Used to shoes tearing in 6 months. Gone are the days of getting your parent’s hand-me down, decades-old clothes.
But it doesn’t have to be this way. We are all pressed between pressures to keep up with trends, increased costs of living and products, and companies’ continual drive to reduce costs. We are all fighting for smaller slivers of the pie, so to speak. I believe one antidote is searching for products that are more timeless in their designs so they are less susceptible to trend-death, and products that just last longer. This is a 2-prong approach that results in multiple, relatively positive impacts in the market. Buying products that last longer literally displaces cheaper disposable items, because less people have reason to replace an item that’s still working well. But I understand the dilemma – longer lasting products cost more upfront, and its difficult for us to make those longer-term calculations in the moment. We have fears and doubts that this more expensive option will even financially outbalance a bunch of their cheaper counterparts – we can’t look into the future. It’s challenging for all of us to think long term, especially when we are primed through marketing to want novel things. Basically – I don’t blame anyone for buying cheap, new, and shiny things. Marketing is incredibly effective at making us believe that new things will make us happy.
As climate change, environmental and ethical issues continue to overtake our attention spans, consumers are starting to value different things. We are understanding that labour and environmental exploitation are strongly linked with rampant consumerism. We need to make better decisions with our money and influence trends into positive directions. The best way to communicate that to businesses is to “buy less, buy better”. This is a motto I’ve come to weave into my marketing, branding, and vision of my business. I hope to educate customers into purchasing one of my products, because I have belts as old as my business that are still in use. I know of my lifting straps with over 9 years of use. That almost decade-old belt may have displaced the purchase and landfill-tossing of 3-5 cheap belts over the same length of time. I know that when I sell a product, I’m not just making a customer happy and supporting myself. I’m also displacing less sustainable, less ethical products.
I hope this article was a good use of your time and that you have come to a better understanding of the market. Please let me know if you have any questions or comments about the information here. I greatly appreciate feedback on this guide as well, and will update it as I learn new things or as the market and products evolve.